Today we explored a stretch of the Norfolk coast and the countryside around Norwich. Less nostalgia, more an excuse to bask in the frankly glorious weather.
First stop was Aylsham. A cluster of old houses and the requisite impressive church gathered around a market square. The village boasts a long list of notable residents and visitors, plus a Grade II–listed lych gate (if that sort of thing excites you).
From there we continued on to Cromer, Great Yarmouth’s slightly more modest cousin. Famous as the setting for the climax of Alpha Papa (Alan Partridge’s cinematic opus) and for hosting the world’s only surviving end-of-the-pier show. I’m sure someone could prove that wrong, but I’m not petty enough to look. This afternoon’s offering was apparently the “world’s finest Britney Spears impersonator,”. Beyond the theatre on the actual end of the pier is the RNLI lifeboat station… always a sight that warms the heart.
Cromer itself is utterly delightful in that very English seaside way. A little run-down, but with real charm. Rows of Victorian terraces and hotels leaning towards a wide sandy beach. We dutifully visited a second-hand shop and a sweet shop, though we passed on the town’s famous crabs and fish and chips.
Then it was along the coast to the small village of Happisburgh (Hays-burr-ə). Archaeologically, it’s a super important place as flint tools over 800,000 years old were discovered here. These are among the earliest evidence of human life in Britain. Less exciting is the sight of houses and land being steadily claimed by coastal erosion rife along this stretch of coast.
Back in Norwich we wrapped up with a late lunch and our almost daily pilgrimage to Marks & Spencer’s food hall. Tonight L has unearthed a choir and brass band concert happening next door. I’ll report back.
Addendum: The Voices and Valves (sic) concert was… good, and also a little bizarre. Seven earnest young men from King’s College sang everything from Tallis to Manilow… and almost got away with it. Between their sets, a Salvation Army brass band took over. No matter what tune they attempted, it somehow came out sounding like Brass John Williams developing the score for a 70s western. The finale (the voices and the valves) joining forces for the risible Love Changes Everything was, of course, the perfect ending.











