We drove cross country from Nottingham yesterday (day 26) and are now staying with K and N and family, which is why there’s been fewer updates. They live in a frankly beautiful part of the world, in a small village not far from Hay-on-Wye, tucked under the brooding, beautiful Black Mountains. The company, the weather (crisp, clear autumn days), the countryside have all been simply perfect.
We were taken on a local history tour starting with Kilpeck Church, a modest Norman chapel that looks innocent enough until you notice the details. It’s crawling with stone carvings of beasts, warriors, and wonderfully indecent little figures that feel like the masons had one eye on their eternal souls and the other on the pub. Built in the 12th century, it’s said to be one of the finest Romanesque doorways in Britain… and honestly it still feels a bit otherworldly, a bit like you’ve stumbled into someone else’s dream.
From there we were whisked off to the “Three Castles” of the Welsh Marches… Grosmont, White and Skenfrith (maybe not in that order). A Norman defensive chain meant to keep the Welsh in check, they were fought over, burned, repaired, and then quietly abandoned when the frontier calmed. Now they’re magnificent ruins, full of birdsong, beautiful views and long grass, where you can still wander the halls and towers and pretend you’re a marcher lord. Or, in my case, croak like one.
I appear to have been struck down with what is undoubtedly the plague, and have lost most of my voice. Medieval castles, medieval symptoms… I’m nothing if not committed to immersive travel.
The Obligatory Blog 